Mám jet na prodloužený víkend na Broumovsko s jedním kamarádem, ale bohužel má covid, tak jedu sám alespoň na den. První zastávkou je Szczytna a boulder Whiplash, boží medvědice a top linka. Nejdřív to vypadá, že si moc neškrtnu, je sice okolo 10 stupňů, ale nějak to jde. Naštěstí mám s sebou větrák a ten zachraňuje situaci, proběhnu kroky a na první pokus jsem nahoře – parádní start dne.
Rychle se přesouvám na nedaleký Batorowek a jasný cíl Ulan Bator, tady je to už složitější proces. 2 hodiny boje ale přináší přelez, bohužel pár pokusů předdokončením dochází ve foťáku baterie, ale Ježíšek na mě myslí a po novém roce už budu točit jen z mobilu. Spaleny Bryzdal je mokrý, tak jdu na Sliwki, už je docela teplo a jedu z toho jak namydlenej. Na závěr si dám traverz Leszcze, kde je těžký konec, a spěchám na Mladkov.
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U auta 19 stupňů, celkem čumím, přejíždím na Mladkov a tam je o 5 stupňů méně, jdu na Romanci Beze Slov, po krokování dám pár pokusů a daří se mi udělat po 13 letech druhý přelez. Klasa asi někde okolo 7C+, škoda, že je to tak nízko nad zemí, jinak zajímavá lištová linka, ještě zkusím protisměr, ale ten bude za vytrvalost okolo 8B, protože těžké místo je na konci...
Druhá polovina boulderu Romance Beze Slov 7C+?
I was supposed to spend a long weekend in Broumovsko with a friend, but unfortunately he got covid, so I'm going alone, at least for one day. My first stop is Szczytna and the Whiplash boulder. At first it looks like I won't do much with it, it's about 10 degrees out there, but somehow I'm coping. Fortunately, I have a fan with me and it saves the day, I try the moves and I'm up at the first attempt, a great start of the climbing day.
I move to the nearby Batorowek and the main goal: Ulan Bator, which is a bit more complicated. 2 hours of struggle, but I manage to finish it, unfortunately my camera runs out of battery after several attempts, but this will be fixed on Christmas and in the new year I will only shoot from my mobile phone. The Spaleny Bryzdal boulder is soaked, so I go to Sliwki instead, it's already quite warm and I go down. At the end, I do a traverse called Leszcze, where the final part is difficult and then I hurry to Mladkov.
It's 19 degrees near the car, wow. I drive to Mladkov and the temperature drops by 5 degrees. I start with Romance Beze Slov, I try the moves and then I give it a few attempts and I manage to climb it for the second time after 13 years. The grade is probably something about a 7C+, it's a shame that it's so low above the ground. I also try the opposite direction, but it requires lots of endurance (grade is about 8B, I guess), because the most difficult part is at the end...
I move to the nearby Batorowek and the main goal: Ulan Bator, which is a bit more complicated. 2 hours of struggle, but I manage to finish it, unfortunately my camera runs out of battery after several attempts, but this will be fixed on Christmas and in the new year I will only shoot from my mobile phone. The Spaleny Bryzdal boulder is soaked, so I go to Sliwki instead, it's already quite warm and I go down. At the end, I do a traverse called Leszcze, where the final part is difficult and then I hurry to Mladkov.
It's 19 degrees near the car, wow. I drive to Mladkov and the temperature drops by 5 degrees. I start with Romance Beze Slov, I try the moves and then I give it a few attempts and I manage to climb it for the second time after 13 years. The grade is probably something about a 7C+, it's a shame that it's so low above the ground. I also try the opposite direction, but it requires lots of endurance (grade is about 8B, I guess), because the most difficult part is at the end...
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